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Author Topic: Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited  (Read 1712 times)

(NW)Lynx

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« on: April 24, 2003, 02:18:35 AM »

Credit to Mars since this is his original sandbox

Here is a link to the original remote start guide.

I attempted the pc remote start project a few weeks ago.  I all came to nil when (with Mars helping...see the forum on the project) I discovered that the output off the chime was making my relay "ding". Sounded just like the door chime.:idiot: What follows is an explanation and a short guide for making a remote start with a keyless lock.

Explanation
My particular $12.97 door chime from Home Depot outputted "pulsed" voltage.  Basically as I understand it, even though the sound coming out the speaker was just a "ding" the circuit outputted pulsating voltage to vibrate the speaker in a way to make that ding.  What I needed was a single pulse of sufficient strength to trip my relay and make the temporary power switch connection.  Mars suggested that I might make a filter to get the output I need.  I gave it a shot but I couldn't get the right combination of capacitance and resistance to flatten the output.  But I am an electronic n00b so this is not much of a surprise.

Solution ---- Walmart!
Yeah I know...but for some reason the group I hang out with gets drawn to walking around Walmart late at night.  I digress.

The Item:
http://members.cox.net/nw_lynx/images/laser.gif">

I found a remote padlock that uses a little motor to open.  Cost at Walmart $8.88 USD.  Holy hand grenades of Antioch this is cheaper than the door chime.  It looked to be more like a remote control (tv and stuff) than an rf transmitter (door chime) but I didn't care.

Guide:
After I got it home I brought out the old circuit I had built to connect to the door chime.  This is my crude diagram: http://members.cox.net/nw_lynx/images/laserlock.JPG">

I tested the laserlock to make sure it works.  The lock made a satisfying motor noise then clicked open.  I took this as a good sign since the motor probably took just a single pulse of 3 volts or so to activate.

A note.  I was powering off the two AA batteries that the unit requires.  The voltage is going to be adjusted since the unit is powered by 2 1.5v batteries and I have a 5 volt power supply (WOL 5v output).  You might get away with putting the full 5 volts through the unit but I did not want to push my luck.

I tried to split the plastic casing on the lock by using a razor knife and a screwdriver.  This wasn't working so I switched to my dremel.  If you try and use a dremel to cut off the plastic be careful not to cut all the way through.  The "front" side of the lock has a circuit board attached right under the surface.  I managed to nick it but just on the edge and only a tiny amount.  I tested it and it still worked.

I cut slowly and used a pair of pliers to pull the plastic apart.  Then I tested the unit again and all seemed to be good.  

I had the casing off the top part and began to disassemble the receiver / circuit from the central housing.  You will have to remove some screws from the circuit board and around where the motor is.  Make sure you don't damage the receiver that is placed on top of the lock unit.  

After taking it apart I noticed red and black wires heading out of the battery casing attached to the circuit.  I left these alone for now.  Another set of red and black wires attaches to a small motor.  I cut one of the wires, trimmed it back, and used my meter to check current flowing to the motor when it is activated.  My meter showed around 437mA.  I then checked voltage on the two leads.  Meter showed 3 volts.  Everything looks good so far.

I cut the leads to the motor and attached the red (+) wire and the black (-) to the coil section of my 5VDC relay.  I originally purchased the relay from Radioshack.  The specs say 3.5v min to power the relay but sometimes the specs are a little off so I tried it anyway.  I attached the output of the relay to the MB power header.  I pulled out the remote gave a push and the pc booted right up.  I actually had to wait about two seconds before the pc kicked on.

I still have to figure the resistance needed and connect the laserlock circuit it to the WOL header.  I'll do it tomorrow and post some pics.  It's 3:00 in the morning here.  If I left some steps out just ask and I'll try and fill in the blanks.
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isisfreak

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2003, 03:02:20 AM »

Sounds pretty cool, I'm looking forward to the pics.

I LOVE ED

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2003, 07:46:23 AM »

Looking at the pics, that looks like it's an IR remote.  I like it especially with the small remote, but then it is IR.  It would be even better if it was radio so you don't have to point and click.  But it's still cool, again, with the small remote.
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(NW)Lynx

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2003, 02:34:25 PM »

Unfortunately the range is shorter and you need line of sight.  But again I don't mind.

Here are the progress pics.http://members.cox.net/nw_lynx/images/spider12.jpg">

The batteries are in the bottom casing.  I cut my finger hacking this thing apart.  :idiot:
Here is my circuit from my previous attempt.
http://members.cox.net/nw_lynx/images/spider14.jpg">

I will finish it up tonight and post the final tomorrow.
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EBFoxbat

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2003, 07:44:20 AM »

I modified a Walmart wireless doorbell ($10) with a relay ($4) to remotly fire my potato cannon. The relay controls a 24v water valve under 60-120 PSI of air power... mmm potato flying 900 feet. Anyway, the relay would be an easy mod to the switch on computer. Little wiring. The bad side: the doorbell takes 3 C batteries.
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(NW)Lynx

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2003, 10:04:01 AM »

Quote from: EBFoxbat
I modified a Walmart wireless doorbell ($10) with a relay ($4) to remotly fire my potato cannon. The relay controls a 24v water valve under 60-120 PSI of air power... mmm potato flying 900 feet. Anyway, the relay would be an easy mod to the switch on computer. Little wiring. The bad side: the doorbell takes 3 C batteries.


Post the actual name and manufacturer of the door bell you used.  The whole problem I had was not being able to filter the output of the doorbell I purchased to emit one single pulse.  I could get the relay to switch if I

 A. used a relay that would switch at 1.83 volts (max pulse that came off door bell I used)

B.  Monitored the pulse so that I send another signal at the exact time the door chime outputs the "largest" pulse.

C.  Built a filter that allowed just one burst of sufficient "strength"

Rather than do that I just looked for another solution.  Hence the lock idea.

But if your door chime doesn't have the same type of output that mine did then it would probably work too.   :D
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EBFoxbat

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2003, 10:10:26 AM »

What is the need for 1.83 volts? The relay I used was from RadioShack. Its rated to switch at 5v. I have no idea what the doorbell chime put out, but it light my 5v LEDs  :D

Though, my valve aplication is differnent. Once the relay switched, the valve opened, the pressure rushed out and the valve can't be closed to the gun is depressurised. I'm not sure id the computer would stay on, as my LEDs puled to the same rhythem of the chime. However, I guess you could add a capasitor to charge during all the pulsing, and emit its own single large pulse to trigger the relay once.

I don't know the make model of the doorbell. It's the only battery powered wireless doorbell that my local walmart had, it was $9.99 I don't have package any more. Sorry.
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(NW)Lynx

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Marsupial's Remote Start Guide Revisited
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2003, 09:36:07 PM »

Quote
What is the need for 1.83 volts? The relay I used was from RadioShack. Its rated to switch at 5v. I have no idea what the doorbell chime put out, but it light my 5v LEDs


5v relay from Radioshaft takes a minimum 3.5v to switch.  So If I had a relay that would switch at a lower voltage...somewhere around the largest pulse the chime put out (1.83v)...the relay would switch and allow the pc to turn on.  

My meter showed at start voltage of about .83 volts a peak voltage of about 1.83 volts and a few short spikes after that.  I'm basically a n00b when it comes to building electronic circuits from scratch.  I did set up a test lab to try and build a filter (resis + capacit) to solve the problem.  I didn't get very far with it so I set it aside.  That's when I saw the lock solution at Walmart.

The reason I asked for the brand was that Walmart had three last time I looked.  Other stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and Radioshack also had some fairly cheap ones ~$10USD of differing manufactures.  If you knew the brand then I'd be sure to get a chime that would give the proper out put instead of the pulsed voltage unit I purchased at Home Depot.
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