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Author Topic: R2 Server  (Read 124938 times)

BillyBob

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R2 Server
« on: October 11, 2005, 11:22:54 AM »

It's been a year now since Waaack and myself came up with a plan to build a new server, The question was what to build...The answer R2D2. The Idea came to us at lunch last August the research started shortly after that, In September the Build started.

The Goals:
Build a R2D2 clone, Close to screen accurate.
Make it R/C Controlled
Sounds and Wireless connectivity are a must.

This Work log will show what we've done and follow the continuation to completion.

As a side note, I didn't know about TGS R2PC till I meet CrimsonSky and Scarab (from TBCS) this year at MML4. Both these mods are different and super sweet. This is not a contest or am I competing with RTS, we just share Similar interests. Hope you like it...For the first few weeks there will be allot of up dates...As it covers the first year of building, once we catch up updates will come as they happen... I'm trying to finish as fast as I can, but the Real world keeps getting in the way of my Hobby, so be patients please.


Crazybillybob
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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2005, 11:23:37 AM »

Here we have the Frame Layed out (the outside has been Routed to shape with a homemade circle jig for the router) The Iside will be trimed away with a Saber saw.



Test fitting the Frame Rings to the Aluminum Dome.




The frame Assembled (the vertical bars are solid aluminun round stock).

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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2005, 11:24:17 AM »

I filled the low spots from forming with Auto body Glaze (it's like bondo, just for smaller "pin holes", it's down side is that is shrinks way more than bondo!) Then sanded it down. This was done till you couldn't see any of the seams or dents.



Next The Primer, Wet sand and remove any high spots (also filled in some more low spots), then 3 coats of prime (wet sand with 600/1000).

R2's Blue color is tricky, as it's a base of purple mixed with gold fleck and a blue candy top. I don't have the expertise in air painting, so I found a rattle can process that works (this was also based on Mr. Kridders work, with a redneck twist!).

Here is the base (as you can see it's a Metallic fleck deep Purple). 3 Coats of base then wet sanded with 1000 (I didn't want that orange peel look!)



The top is a blue anodized spray. (3 coats wet sanded with 1000)
Then I laid 4 coats of clear (3 wet sanded with 1000, then 1 light to clear up the fog!)




I've not polished or buffed it in these pics.


Crazybillybob
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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2005, 11:24:50 AM »

The frame took about 3-4 hours to make, the Alum vertical round bars took about 3-4 hours to cut then drill and tap a 1/4" hole in each end.

The Skin of the R2-SRV is 0.04" white Styrene (plastic). I got 2 4x8' sheets of this (The body is 18" around and 24"ish tall, plus the legs). If you looking for this stop in and see your friendly neighborhood sign maker, they can get it for you (it was $20us a sheet) Mine was there the day after I ordered it.

I had cad drawings of R2's body panels that I got printed out on E sized paper. That was lightly spray glued to the plastic. There are 4 sections of skins, the front inner, the front outer, the back inner, the back outer. This was done to give it that raised panel look when I finished cutting out the panels.
To get a feel for how it would look I taped the Rear outer layer onto the frame, Slipped the resin Power coupler in place and set the Aluminum Dome on top of the frame.






This is a look into the frame with the Rear skin on, no Dome, no front skins.


Now I can start cutting out all the panels....This is going to take awhile!
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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2005, 11:25:30 AM »

Here's what I'm working on now.

The Drive Train.....
I'm taking the Scooter motor / rear drive wheel assembly and adjusting it to fit into the feet boxes. I'll also be using the Batteries to power the motors.

Here is the donor a $49 Scooter form Big Lots


I've got it disassembled here....not much to it as you can see.


This Scooter will not engage the drive wheel till it's rolling 3mph...That will not do in R2 so I'm going to get rid of the controller here.


With the controller gone the 24V charging circuit is very simple.


I'll be posting more tonight or in the morning, I'm still unpacking R2 from the Midwest R2-builders mini con In Chicago (Bolingbrook) IL this weekend.



Let me know what you think!

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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2005, 11:26:16 AM »

Here is the outer foot shell and the scooter motor frame (striped down and Moded). When I make the Center foot shell I'll take more pics. The outers were made spur of the moment, and I didn't have a camera with me. 

The foot shells are made from old computer cases, not the cheap ones these things are 1/32" ish thick. I laid out the pattern on the case and added tabs (to be folded in so I had something to spot wield too.) Then they were cutout a sheet metal cutter (I'll get a pic off this next time too) and a air power nibbler made short work of the cutting. Then a vise , sheet metal Piers and some spare steel blocks and the bending was done. All in all it took about 5.5-6.75 hrs to make two of these (first one took 75% of that time).




The frame here is still a work in progress. The support brackets on the top of it need adjusted to fit the foot, I still need to cut a slot in the top of the foot shells and put some u channel in there so I can attach the ankle to the foot. Once the channel is in the brackets will be adjusted and welded in place.



This is how the motor Mount will sit in the foot shell.



And a look at it from the inside (the part of the foot closest to R2's body)




Back to work! ;)
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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2005, 11:27:00 AM »

Here's a little look into what I'm working on this weekend.

This is a picture of R2D2 built by ILM for one of the Starwars movies.


It is a 4x27 matrix of 3mm LEDs. I'm working on creating a printed curcuit board with 108 Ultra bright LEDs on it then randomizing the blinking pattern with a Microcontroller. I've been working on it in cad for a while...I'll get some screen shoots of the drawings up.



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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2005, 11:27:37 AM »

The work on the Rear Logic Display went well this weekend.
Here is the Cad Drawings I made to Get all the parts to fit in this little space.


First up was the Creation on the Bezel. This piece is used to Line up all the 3mm Leds so they look neat and are easier to see.
I've tried to make this out of styrene previously and the drill bit ripped the lattice out (but only after I drilled 80-90 holes ...there's 108 total)
So this time I'm using a 2.5mm thick Aluminum plate...The Lattice shouldn't tear as easily.

I printed the Bezel layout 1:1 then coated the back in a thin layer of spray adhesive ( this keeps the print from moving on you when your marking the centers to drill). Once the layout was in place I used a scratch all the mark dead center for each hole, next I center punched each hole. Here's what it looked like when that was finished.


If you look at the bottom of the plate you can see my first set of mistakes. I used a 1/8" drill bit to bore the holes, and it ended up cutting through the lattice. To fix the problem I got a smaller drill bit but will have to file out each hole a bit to let the 3mm LEDs fit in them....Snuggly! (if you look a the center of the mistake area you'll see these test holes...Works great! After allot of hole drilling, and some shaping the bezel looks great.

I also worked on etching the circuit board that the LED's will be hooked to.
As with the bezel I printed the layout out 1:1 on a Laser printer. Then cut it to fit the board. I also added alignment marks (not shown in the Drawing here) so both sides of the PCB (printed Cuircut Board) line up. I drilled 0.004" holes in the center of these marks and put pins in them. Then I Laid the Layouts printed side to copper on the board and heated with my iron for abit (20-30mins total) watching all the time not to burn the paper. Once that was complete I soaked the paper off in water. This is what it looked like after the water bath. (sorry just realized that I have no pics of that Process prior to this...I'll get them up the next time ..as I have many more PCBs to make for R2)


Now the board gets soaked in ferric chloride till all the unwanted copper is gone. Rinse the board with water and your ready to drill.

Here is the PCB and the Aluminum Bezel side by side.


Here a couple of pics showing the way these parts will be used together.
The first is the Rear Logic surround (made from Resin) with the Aluminum bezel underneath. The Second shows the PCB with the Bezel over it underneath the RLS.

1:


2:



Now I have to finish Drilling the 200+ 0.004 holes in the circuit board (got some drilled but broke my bit and it was late so I went to bed) and Solder in 108 Leds (thatís 216 Solder joins just for the LEDS!) I'll post those pics in a few weeks. Ha it takes time to do all that work, plus I've got some other parts that I need to get done quick before I do all the tedious stuff.

Let Me know what you think.

Crazybillybob
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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2005, 11:28:16 AM »

I Tought it would be cool to snap a pic of my pile of parts. (Note the front skins are just taped in place.)





Let me know what you think.



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BillyBob

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Re: R2 Server
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2005, 11:29:04 AM »

After working on the Aluminum Bezel I ran into a little snag.



The 3mm LEDs I ordered have this little lip on the bottom that makes them 3.4mm  :eek:  so the lips on each LED  overlap.



Well here is the answer to the question how to get rid of the lip.



After a few quick clips the lips gone.



Now the LEDs fit snuggly with no overlap.



Here's a preview of what the front will look like with the LEDs in place.

Now I've gotta get them soldered into the PCB.




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